I bought this book a few days ago and I agree its just fabulous! 'Jewel' is a great sweater, but I think my first project is going to be the 4-S Vest. Short and sweet and since cooler weather is coming the timing is perfect.

Hi Joy -- what yarn will you use for your vest?

That vest was tempting to me, too, esp. since it doesn't use a lot of yarn, and I thought I might be able to use some of my stash. But no! Yesterday I went to one of my LYS (Dinah's in Port Hadlock) and got some help choosing yarn, since they didn't have the cotton/tencel in the book (I guess fall is not the time to shop for cotton yarns!). I chose based on DC's (Doris Chan's) recommended 5.5 stitches per inch (22 st/4"), and came home with Sirdar Snuggly "Baby Bamboo" (80% bamboo, 20% wool). It is so soft! For my first top, I am using off-white so it's easy to see the stitches and (oh yeah) so it's adaptable to wear.

I'm up to round 4, completing the neckline, which took some inspired guessing to figure out how to translate her directions -- I wish there was a picture! but I figured it out, eventually, and it makes sense and looks good. I'm not used to using the base chain/single crochet foundation; it is nice and stretchy, not inelastic like a plain chainstitch foundation.

Onward! As soon as my houseguests leave....! Rainy Sunday, good for staying indoors with the yarn.

I'm going to use 100% wool. And I'm going to make it a solid color, probably a warm beige or maybe black. I'm guessing you live in Washington (my parents are in Sequim). Do you have a Michael's near you? They have Lion Wool on sale this week for $4/3.5 oz. skein, that's a pretty good price for a basic wool yarn. We don't have a local yarn store here. The closest is Walnut Creek (about 30 miles).

But enough about me...I'm more excited about your bamboo yarn! I bought 11 skeins of Patons Bamboo last week in the most gorgeous pink you can imagine. No project for it but I absolutely had to have it (and I bought all of it, too!). I think the Patons is blended with acrylic, not wool, but same thing - so soft you just can't resist. So please let me know everything you discover about working with this yarn; how it drapes, stitch definition...just everything! And thanks for the heads up about her directions, I'll know to read very carefully and work slowly.

Also just wanted to mention about 'wraps per inch' when substituting yarn. I leaned about this in Interweave Crochet spring issue. If they give the WPI number in the pattern instructions its pretty easy to figure. You wrap your intended yarn around a ruler (don't pull real tight) then count how many times around in one inch. If it goes around fewer times, your yarn is too thick; more times, your yarn is too thin. This worked very well for me with my summer projects.

One more thing and then I'll leave you alone - foundation stitches. Another great thing from Interweave Crochet! They had the best article with diagrams and step-by-step instructions. There's no going back for me now. It's even easier to put an edging on if you've used the foundation stitches.

When you finish your top, please post a photo! I'd love to see it.

Hi Joy: thanks for your thoughts! Wraps per inch is the way that weavers figure yarns; I haven't tried it for crocheting but it should work!

The Sirdar bamboo/wool yarn feels very nice to work with. It is supposed to be machine washable (but dry flat). Stitch definition seems fine; I wonder how it will look when wet-finished (blocked). I have already made a scarf from bamboo/merino that is very soft to wear and lovely bright colors (pink! and orange! yes I do live in the rainy Pacific NW where it's looking wintry grey right now!)

She packs a LOT of info into these pages, and so far I have been able to decode pretty well, by going slowly, looking ahead at what the pattern count should be after increases, etc.

You start with 3 rows on shoulders/back, then complete the circle with more foundation chain stitches and connect up the circle, so the front neckline is dropped a bit: this makes nice neckline shaping! That took a while to figure out but works nicely. Then Row 4 (I am making size 36) has increase-on-increase shells at the four "corners" (between front and sleeves and back).

Working through this pattern is a great exercise for me and is teaching me new things! So worthwhile; once I get how she works these designs, I'll be able to whiz through the rest of the book and/or adapt and be inventive (and use up more of my stash!!)

I am taking pictures as I go and will post some!

Hi, Theresa and Joy,
Wow. I really appreciate your struggles and commentary. I also got the book about the same day I signed on here, and it looks wonderful! I started out by learning that I'm going to have to work on that foundation-first row business for a while. It looks so easy. I'm using the Spring 2007 Interweave Crochet for a text.

Meanwhile I have a couple of projects on the hooks for family members, so I'm stealing the time. I just wanted you to know you're appreciated.

Hi Whisperlouise, Thanks for your note! My grandmother was Louise; that's a picture of her that is my "avatar" and she taught me to crochet!

It took me a while to get the hang of the base chain/foundation SC (or base chain/DC, which was the way I first encountered it) but it is REALLY worth the practice! It makes a wonderful springy edge; it is so much easier to work in to that a regular foundation chain.

It helped me get it when I realized it's sorta like making extended single-crochet, a stitch I've been using a lot lately and liking. It also helps if I pinch the chain (the first loop you pull through) with my left hand as I go, so I don't lose track of where to put the hook for the next stitch.

I'm rockin' and rollin' with "Jewel" -- a few more rounds to go before I join up under the arms to make the armholes, and continue southward with the body.

I'm already looking ahead: can I afford 5 balls of cashmere to make the Mei-Mei cropped cardi (on the cover)!? Or maybe by then I will be confident enough to try to adapt some of the beautiful soft periwinkle yarns from my stash -- can I mix some mohair with some rayon/silk with some silk with some other stuff?!? Stay tuned.

I'm still trying to figure out how to put pictures into my posts. Here's a link to flickr where I posted a picture of the first few rows of my "Jewel" -- http://www.flickr.com/photos/skeinfest/

Teresa -

Your pictures are great! I'm really impressed with your 'Jewel' so far. And the socks are cute - I was reading the sock threads (no pun intended) here the other day and it's got me interested in trying a pair. That's something that I've never made before but it actually looks quick and easy, which has been my mantra lately. What's the best yarn to use for socks?

What's the best yarn to use for socks?! Sock yarn!

Many manufacturers make yarn that is specifically intended for socks, often wool with a thread of nylon for durability, and often in self-striping colors, lots of fun to work. Or any lightweight yarn; for added strength you can carry along a thread of woolly nylon (made for use in sergers; stretchy and thin and fuzzy and very strong).

Thicker yarn makes thicker socks; my "sock yarn" socks are already pretty thick and only fit in to my "winter" shoes.

I haven't finished the socks made from Panda Cotton (54% cotton, 24% bamboo, 21% nylon from Crystal Palace Yarn) shown in the picture. I'll post a picture of my favorites made from "Trekking XXL" (that's the brand, not the size) -- long repeats of five different colors, wool with nylon.

Maybe I should post this on the sock thread....

Thanks for your note!

"Jewel" yoke, raglan increases at one corner, as of Sunday! Now, I have about 3 rows to go until I can join up the corners under the arms to make the 3 openings (2 sleeves and one torso). This is the bamboo (80%) and wool yarn from Sirdar. It is so nice in my hands as I work; I think it will feel good to wear.

(And I am feeling so pleased with myself that I figured out how to post a picture from my Flickr account!)

-- Teresa

Correction for Size 36 JEWEL Rows 5-14

Page 38 says:

Row 5-14, Yoke rounds 2-3, Yoke Rounds 1-2 twice, Yoke Rounds 1-2 once more, 38 pattern repeats.

It should say:

Row 5-14, Yoke rounds 2-3, Yoke Rounds 1-3 twice, Yoke Rounds 1-2 once more, 38 pattern repeats.

In other words, ten rows following the instructions for the 3-row sequence of Yoke Rounds: Yoke Round 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, 1, 2, 3, 1, 2.

.
Still life for crocheters.... I really should get back to work!

Teresa, I see that you write down the numbers of the rows you have to do. I do that as well. I keep a notepad handy, write the row numbers and follow that. I cross them off as I complete them. It's the only way I have found to keep my place in a pattern.

Hmm, looks like I have another book to buy. I just bought "Not your Mama's Crochet". I'm going to end up with more patterns than I have time to complete!

Half done, a week into it! I've used 4 of my 8 balls of yarn. I figure one for each sleeve and two more for body. It feels great on; very cushy, springy fabric, comfortable and just enough stretch/cling to look good.

A comment on DC's foundation row - I tried the sc version for the first time on a swatch Friday. Love, love, love it. I used it for real yesterday. No more chains for me.

Yes indeedy! that foundation base chain/single crochet is nice! took me a while to see how to work it; I kept losing track of where to insert the hook, and getting odd-looking chains. But well worth the learning-time!

It makes the neckline of the Jewel top; it's nice and stretchy! And the stitches on the edge are big and obvious; these are the ones that I'll work into when I do the finishing rows around the neckline. Not like trying to dig in to a bunch of teensy chain stitches!

Teresa -

Your sweater is gorgeous! I'm so impressed, you've made a ton of progress since the last photo. Now I'm itching to start my 4-S vest. Maybe tonight....

I do have the yarn - Paton's 100% Merino wool and I'm making it solid black. Since I want to wear it over turtlenecks and such I need it to be versatile. I feel really guilty thinking about something else for myself when I have all these other projects for my daughter, daughter-in-law and grandson either started or in the thinking stages. I really should finish their stuff first. We'll see...

Nah! You need to make something wonderful for yourself!

I used to weave (for a few years, not very accomplished) and it was fun to make teatowels and things as gifts. "You MADE that?! cool!!" But now I have almost nothing for myself from those days! That's why I decided to make this sweater for myself; the same thing was happening with my crocheting binge of the past year, and I wanted something to keep around where I can look at it!

Black vest over turtleneck! sounds like my wardrobe for this time of year! I do have most of a vest I started making last February of gorgeous yarn from ArtFibers in San Francisco (Mackenzie yarn in light green [06]), but I stopped when 7/8 done because I wasn't sure it would fit (but how else could I find out?!?). I think I will go back to it after I finish this. If it really doesn't fit I may pull it apart and re-do using one of DC's top-down patterns.

Okay - I started swatching last night. Boy, this is pretty intimidating. I thought I was an intermediate level crochet-er but maybe not! I probably should have chosen something closer to the beginning of the book. This book is like a course in design. I read the beginning about fitting and switching yarns, etc. and it appears that she starts with those basic tanks and then builds from there, adding length and sleeves and short rows and all the other fun things. The starting directions for my sweater say "Make the same as Insight (page 100) to completion of body, stopping before skirt...alright, back to page 100 where the starting directions say "Make same as Galena (page 90) through JOIN ROW. continue to work back and forth, fill in pattern at underarms as follows...so back to page 90 and finally here are actual directions and a chart. At least the gauge for all 3 is the same; 4-S uses a different wool but no matter because I'm using a different wool, too!

Anyway, it's rainy and cool here today so I'm staying in all day to work on this. Its also my 15th anniversary today and while I sometimes think I deserve a Combat Action Medal I'll settle for a day to spoil myself! I started a Flick account last night too, so if I can figure that out also, I'll post a photo.

Yes, she does that! It's not quite so bad though -- you don't have to go back to the beginning of the book. But the beginning of each chapter starts with what weights of yarn to use, how far you can go in substituting, how to choose the right size for yourself. The first pattern in each chapter is the basic design. Subsequent designs in that chapter start out the same, then make variations. So there is a LOT of flipping back and forth in the pages!

Even if, like me and Jewel, you do the first one in the chapter, where it's all there in one place (no "make same as Hoo-Hah on page xx") -- she gives lots of sizes, so there are whole pages in the book where nothing applies to the one I am making except maybe a few lines.

Can be very confusing! So here's what I did ... and it would probably be even more important for your pattern, since it refers back to other designs earlier in the chapter.

Go photocopy all of the pages that apply: your pattern, plus Insight up to completion of body, and Galena up through JOIN ROW. Staple 'em all together in the order you would make the vest IN YOUR SIZE, read through carefully and and CROSS OUT everything that does not apply (latter parts of Insight and Galena, anything that is not your size), and CIRCLE OR HIGHLIGHT the alternatives for your size.

You will end up with pages that are nearly all crossed out, but what remains should be YOUR pattern in the right order for YOUR SIZE. I used the margins to make notes for myself, like, how far I got with the first couple of balls of yarn, a couple of little drawing where I was figuring things out. I also stuck on post-its with "Pattern Round 1" and "Pattern Round 2" etc. so the "special stitches" would stay handy (mostly, it has to do with how to make the join and move up a round). I kept these pages with my project and didn't have to haul the book around.

Sounds clunky but it really worked for me, eliminating the possibility of getting derailed by numbers for another size. Maybe I should post a photo of how marked up my photocopy is, now that I am 3/4 done! Yes ... one sleeve down, one more to go, plus one more ball of yarn to complete the body and do the SC neckline edging. I really have taken FAR too much time away from work this past 10 days to work on this but it has been a lot of fun.

I posted details on how to post photos elsewhere; let me get this up and I'll post another note with a link to the forum where I did it.

http://crochetme.com/forum/please-help-download-picture

This should link to the instructions I put up for getting your pictures into your messages (as pictures, not just links). Hope this helps!

One sleeve done -- took one full ball of yarn. I have two balls of yarn left (of 8 total for the sweater). It took 2 to get from the neckline to the underarm. I've used 3 more on the body from underarm down; one more to go. It will not be a long sweater! The black ribbon just visible on my dress form is where my waist is. This will end up about 3-4" below my waistline, at high hip. I wouldn't want to tuck it in, anyway; it's too thick (cushy!).

On the sleeve, I'm one round short of what the pattern says I should have (about half an inch in length). I would add more sleeve length but I don't think I'll have enough left after doing the other sleeve and adding a few more inches on the body. I calculated that I need to save about 4 yards to do the last bit: SC edge on the neckline. I wish I'd gotten extra yarn!

Though let's see what the blocking does. It's going to be a great summer sweater. Thought it is surprisingly warm!

I chose size 36 which is the same as my bust measurement for this one, which gives a fitted sweater. I like this, but I'm going to size up on my next one, for a sweater I could wear over other layers.

That will be the next pattern in the chapter, same basic design but longer in the body with hem vents, long sleeves. She calls it "No Sweat" as it is sort of sweatshirt-like. But I don't want to use the FPDC/BPDC ribbing on neckline and sleeve hems; any ideas for an alternative?

Already have the yarn: Heirloom "Breeze" (2/3 cotton plus wool and a bit of lycra) in a gorgeous inky-blue.

Your sweater is getting more and more beautiful.

I want that book!!

Pauline -

You will fall in love with the book and want to make every sweater in there. When you read her design philosophy and see how she translates that to the finished product you will be amazed. All of the garments in the book are designed for real people's bodies, which I surely appreciate. Anyway, I got my copy at B&N but I should have ordered from Amazon and used the savings to buy extra yarn.

Speaking of sizing etc. She does offer the option of using short rows if you need more room in the bust. I didn't do that, but if anybody does, chime in.

Boy, do I hate swatching. Never mind that it's necessary, I still hate it. I always have issues with gauge and this vest is no exception. I'm up to a size N and still have too many stitches per inch, even in the pattern. And I'm lousy at math, more so when I'm annoyed, so calculating new stitch counts just p!$$&$ me off. And with this pattern it won't be so easy.

On the positive side, the black yarn looks great and stitch definition is very good.

As Winston Churchill once said; "Never, never, never give up."

Problem solved. I just needed to repeat the pattern enough times and get a good rythym (sp?) going. It should be okay now.

Yay for you! For me, the first time through the pattern was tough! but I kept thinking that if I figured it out on this one, I would NOT have to go through the same contortions (ripping out and doing over, sometimes 3 times!) on the rest of the patterns in the book. That made it a lot easier to contemplate the "do-overs." Hope you don't have as many as I did! (or will? I think I am past the tricky parts; now it's just straight rounds to length.)

I had to take a couple of days off but have completed one sleeve and started the second one. I ordered another couple balls of the yarn -- my LYS was out -- so I can make the sleeves longer. On me, with 20 rounds (pattern calls for 21 but my ball of yarn ended) just comes to my elbow, which is not very graceful!

What size did you choose to make? Same as, larger, or smaller than your bust measurement? This is the info I would love to have along with pictures of each new pattern, to help me choose MY size before I start. So much depends on how a garment fits; I could be a medium or an XL or even a small.

On Knitting Daily they put the same sample garment on half a dozen different-sized people around the office (plus a mannekin) and told what each person's actual measurement was, so you could see how, say, a 36" bust sweater fit (or didn't) on people from 32 to 40" or more. It was REALLY enlightening to see; one size DOESN'T fit all but it was surprising sometimes to see how flattering a "wrong" size was.

Here is the link for the first entry in this series:

http://www.knittingdaily.com/posts/pullovers/183-1.html

and there are "galleries" for several more sweaters in the posts for the week or so after that.

Actually this links directly to the first "gallery" for a "corset" style top:

http://www.knittingdaily.com/knittinghelp/corsetgals.html

Even though it's Kn**ting, it's cool to see this!

Hey Teresa,

Looks wonderful! Congrats.

You can anticipate a certain amount of growth in the body and sleeves after finishing and agressive blocking. What I like to do is hold off adding any additional length until it's done and on the body. THEN, if you want it longer, just work on more rounds (or remove excess length just as easily by ripping). That's one of the beauties of top-down construction and leaving an "unfinished" lower edge. :)

Yours,

Doris

I read Knitting Daily also. That series on sizing was really good and I loved that corset sweater. There's always timely information in that newsletter.

As for my vest, now I'm torn between making that or the Galena sweater. They both take about the same amount of yarn and I'm having a hard time deciding which would be more practical.

I didn't have any trouble reading the chart; I actually had more difficulty with the written instructions. As far as sizing, my full bust measurement is 43. I'll go up to the next size since it's going to be a pullover. I haven't actually started yet as I got sidetracked by a lovely felted clutch purse, but that will be finished tonight or tomorrow and then I'll get going.

And did you see the post above? How cool is that? Now you know you've done a great job!

Hey Joy! Have you moved from swatching to the Thing Itself? How's it going?

Me, I'm moving toward the moment of truth! I stitched up all 8 balls of yarn, ending ONE shell short of a complete round at the hem! Drat! I have a few 2-yard lengths (and two more balls of yarn should arrive tomorrow so I can lengthen the sleeves), but adding on just for ONE SHELL...?! Sheesh!

As soon as I finish weaving in the ends I'm going to soak it in tepid water, roll it between towels, and pat it into shape on a gridded board and let it dry overnight.

I took pictures of it before blocking, and I'll take post before-and-after pix to see how much it grows in length.

Hey Teresa,

I am so excited for you. Am holding my breath....

Doris

Esteemed Doris! please don't hold your breath! You'll turn a really unfortunate color of blue!

"Jewel" is still wet -- this bamboo takes a long time to dry, especially in a cool upstairs room. But, hey, you were not kiddin' -- it really did grow: several inches in length AND girth. Can't wait for it to be dry so I can try it on.

Here's "before" blocking, on me.

Here it is "before" blocking, laid flat.

Here it "during" blocking: after soaking in some warm water with Eucalan, rinse, and roll in towels.

I am so eager for it to dry so I can try it on! I may yet add a few inches to the length of the sleeves (I have really long arms, and it's coming in to winter....).

Teresa -

That looks great! You did a marvelous job, it looks just like the one in the book! And I like the sleeve length. I don't think it needs to be changed at all; it fits the style of the sweater perfectly.

I'm felting my purse this afternoon and I'll start the 4-S tonight. I hope to have a little photo up tomorrow morning. (Thanks for all your encouragement.)

Once again - fabulous job on the Jewel! It is absoultely beautiful, a "Jewel" of a sweater!

Warning - this will probably be a long post.

Okay, I started last night. I only ripped out 3 times and it only took me three hours to finish 2 rows. I don't know if I'm feeling a sense of accomplishment or exhaustion, but I'm going to finish this sweater just because I refuse to let the pattern get the best of me. It's not really confusing, you just have to take it stitch-by-stitch.

I made copies of all the pages and marked them up, which really did make a big difference. Oh, I'm making a size 45, hopefully will be a little loose to go over t-shirts, turtlenecks, etc. Also, I'm probably going to make it a little longer in the waist and sleeves to cover tummy and lack of a gym membership.

Base chain and row 1 were no problem, everything counted out fine. I won't bore you with all the gory details of row 2, but there's a reason for that old saying "Third time's the charm"! I now have intimate knowledge of the anatomy of a double crochet. One thing a little weird:

See where the skewer is pointing to that little bump? I can't figure out what that is. It showed up every time and it ruins the nice smooth neckline. Well, I have bulges too, so I'll just have to love it like it is unless someone can tell me how to fix it.

Now I'm stuck at row 3.

It doesn't count out. The first part is okay: ch 5, dc in first dc,...up to SH in in next sc*. So the last stitch in row 2 was an increase shell and there are enough double crochets to work into, but then it say "repeat from * to * [sc in second dc of next sh, SH in next sc] to next inc-sh.
What, actually, am I repeating? And the second to last stitch on row 2 was an increase shell also, so I have an extra dc in there. What do I do with that? Am I making incease shells in every stitch in this row or am I only increasing at the ends? It would definitely help to have a chart for the increases. Or at least it would help me.

One really good thing: In the Galena instructions it says "Stop here for Insight..." and in the Insight instructions it says "Stop here for 4-S Vest.." .

Also, this book ages very well. If I can get this figured out I will probably make almost every garment in it. The shapes are so simple, but so flattering, and the yarns are so luxurious. These would be tops that never get stale.

One other note (for now): I'm using Patons 100% Merino wool and I think it's more for felting than for garment construction. It has a little halo so you can't see the stitches really well. I don't know anything about the yarn specified in the instructions, but I'm betting it's smoother because you can really see the stitches in the book photos. Next time I would buy exact or find something closer to the specified yarn. On the other hand, my vest will be really warm!

Well, I just figured out part of my problem by reading over my post and looking at the pictures and re-reading the pattern instructions. I am going to have to rip out again, but it will be worth it. I mis-understood the directions for the incease shell and was only making 4 dc's instead of 5 so no wonder it wouldn't count correctly. A picture truly is worth a thousand words!

Oh, one other thing ... the error I kept making in the early part of this sweater was that sometimes I FORGOT TO TURN MY WORK at the end of a round. Of course you must turn when it is still rows, before joining up the neckline, but after that, it took me a while to remember to turn my work consistently. In fact, there is one row where the shells are still out of phase (because I didn't turn); it's just below the back neckline. You can see it in the "before" blocking photo. Don't tell anybody! I didn't discover this until I was way beyond and decided I could live with it. But TURNING at the end/start of each round became a sort of ritual, and I also got in the habit of checking that the loops at the tops of my DCs of the new row were pointing in the opposite direction of the row I was working in to. MANY rows had to be redone before I firmed up this habit!

My other bit of advice is, when you get to where you join up the armholes, keep the markers on the increases! Oh, you don't have sleeves to add since you are making a vest, so maybe this does not apply. But for Jewel, when it came to joining up the yarn for the sleeves, the instructions referred to "marked shell" and I had let the markers go...

Still. Not perfect, but good enough to wear!

Can't wait until Jewel dries so I can weave in the last ends and wear it!! By the way, the way it fit me unblocked reminded me of "Poor Boy Sweaters" that were fashionable when I was in about 6th grade, around the time of go-go boots.... I loved my poor-boy sweater! went with everything. (Actually I loved my go-go boots too. I'd wear them now! but in black, this time, not white.)

Hey Teresa and Joy,

I have been following your progress with great interest. Here are some comments that might be helpful:

---The hardest part is keeping all those increases in mind.  In order to make a shaped neck opening and shoulders there will be increases at four corners of the yoke AND at each neck edge.  The increases come faster at first, every row.  That encourages the shoulder to bloom more quickly.  Then the increases come every other or every third row depending on the stitch pattern, to make the shoulder cap come down over the top of the arm. 

---Yes, keep those yoke corner markers in place until you have managed the sleeves or armhole finishes.  I like to use strands of contrast yarn, flipping the end back and forth across the rows each time, so you get dotted lines along the increase corners.

---Yes, the neck shaping will look lumpy at first.  Shaping in pattern is never a straight-line thing.  Trust me, once you get the edging on there and do some blocking it will all smooth out.

---Whenever you swap out the yarn, your results will be different.  I've made these designs plus all the variations in many yarns and even I can't tell you what's going to happen with your particular yarn.  Sticky wool will not behave the same way as slick bamboo.  So the best I can suggest is to finish one, as Teresa has done.  See what happens.  Learn from the experience.

 Here's my current fave; I wear it often.  V-Neck Pullover (Tall Raspberry?) in Classic Elite Premier, size 33, no shaping, simple scallop neck edge, wrist-length tapered sleeves, cover-the-butt length with side vents.

Please continue to post about your progress.  I learn so much from your trials and tribulations.  THANKS!

Yours,

Doris