When I was just a wee crocheter, we used to call this Afghan stitch. I’m not sure when the term Tunisian came into popular use, but no doubt it was sometime during my misspent youth – that dark era when I failed to bring out the crochet hook for years at a time. Regardless of what you call it, this is an easy and handsome stitch and is particularly great for making stiffer fabrics.

Tunisian crochet is different from regular crochet in several ways. First, it is all worked on one side. You do not turn your work and the right side always faces you. Second, each row is worked in two parts: a forward part and return part, which I will address shortly. Third, it is technically possible to “drop” stitches with Tunisian crochet, and although it is not nearly as devastating as it is in knitting, it is a pain to correct so be sure to count your stitches frequently.

To begin, make a chain as usual.

1st row, forward: This is sometimes called the foundation row. Turn and begin picking up stitches as follows: insert the hook into the first chain next to the hook and pull yarn through. There are now two loops on the hook. Insert hook into next chain and pull yarn through again – three loops on the hook now. Continue across. When you finish you should have the same number of loops on your hook as originally chained. For example, the pattern above begins with a ch 15. At the end of the forward part of the first row, there should be 15 loops on the hook (see Figure 1).

Figure 1

1st row, return: Working with right side (front) facing you still, yarn over your hook and pull a loop through the first loop (see Figure 2).

Figure 2

Yarn over again and pull a loop through the next two loops on the hook. Repeat across until there is one loop left on the hook (see Figure 3).

Figure 3

2nd row (and remaining rows), forward: Note that each stitch in the first row has a vertical line associated with it. You will begin your 2nd row by inserting the hook into the vertical line in the second stitch from the hook (Figure 4). Yarn over and pull a loop onto the hook. Continue inserting and pulling until you get to the last st. When you work the last st, insert the hook into the vertical line as well as the loop of yarn behind that – see Figure 5.

  
Figure 4                                                    Figure 5

This will make a firm selvedge edge on the left side that looks and feels the same as the right edge. Work this loop loosely, however, to keep the sides even.

2nd row (and remaining rows), return: Work the same as 1st return row.

Tunisian increase, forward: Make a forward row as usual. When all the loops are on the hook, continue by chaining the desired number of extra stitches, plus 1. Then remove the last loop of the chain from the hook. (see Figure 6).

Insert hook into first ch and pull up the back loop. Do this for all the ch except the last one. Return last loop to hook.

Tunisian increase, return: Work return row as usual. When there is one loop remaining on the hook, continue by chaining the desired number of extra stitches. When working the next forward row, skip the first ch closest to the hook and pull up loops in the remaining ch. Be sure to pull up a loop in the 1 st vertical st of the row – the one that is normally skipped on non-increasing rows.

Tunisian cast-off: This is worked on a forward row. Pull up first loop, then yarn over and pull yarn through two loops. Continue across to last st. After the last st is completed, break yarn and pull end through last loop.

If you would like more detailed instruction, there are quite a few good internet sources for Tunisian stitch. Two that I particularly like are Knitted Threads’ Afghan/Tunisian Stitch; A Brief Introduction, by Janet Rehfeldt and The Stitchguide’s Easy Tunisian™.