Argument for Vintage

Open the pages of any fashion magazine and you’ll see crochet – funky, bohemian, girly and modern. This year crochet took the world of high fashion by storm, dominating the spring/summer runways of Prada, Roberto Cavalli, and Christian Dior. But, where should a fashion-forward crocheter turn for modern garment patterns? In two words: the past.

Now, I’m not being deliberately obtuse. While most current magazines and books haven’t caught up with trends in fashion, old patterns are surprisingly in touch. Remember: fashion is constantly updating old ideas with a new twist.  The current trend for shrugs and capelets is a throwback to the chic June Cleaver days of the early 1950s. Much of ‘70s fashion was merely a reinterpretation of the long clean lines of the ‘30s. Martha Stewart’s ubiquitous “Freedom Poncho” style was last popular in the 1970s. And, while I can't endorse the current ‘80s revival having lived through it the first time (polo shirts with the collars flipped up just make me think of The Breakfast Club), it's another example of the constant recycling of fashion.

It is easy to focus on the scary, the ugly, and the truly hideous crochet creations of days gone by. I won’t lie – the crunchy acrylic yarn and outdated color palettes (think avocado green and harvest gold) can be off-putting. But look at the lines of the garment, or the intricacy of the stitch pattern. Identify your personal style and what you’d like to achieve. With a squint of the eye and a tilt of the head, you can find the basis of clean, modern designs in the patterns of the past.

Finding Vintage Inspiration

We’ve all seen the “hippy” crocheted bikini in every “hip” crochet magazine, but there is more to vintage crochet than the bra top. Crochet patterns from before World War II can be difficult to locate, but for anyone with a nose for the thrift store, the antique mall, the garage sale, or eBay, patterns from the 1940s-1980s are widely available.

The times:

Pre-1930s – Most crochet done prior to the 1930s was done with thread, using very tiny steel hooks. Due to their age, the availability of these patterns is limited. Some reprints can be found online, especially on eBay. Patterns to look for include: delicate and lacy purses, shawls, and household items.

1930s – The Depression put a limit on luxury, but not on creativity. Some crocheters may have been poor, but they were still ladylike. Look for accessories, like removable collars and cuffs, to make old blouses and dresses look new again.

1940s – The war years and those just after were conservative, literally. People were conserving cloth and yarn, so styles were narrow and prim. But crocheters could afford to go wild with their hats. Look for extraordinary hats that popped up in 1940’s era patterns: think Peter Pan, poodles and pinwheels. Many hat patterns of the day were done in crochet because it creates stiff shapes with much greater ease than knitting.

1950s – Starting with Dior’s “New Look,” introduced in 1948, fashion celebrated the end of the war with wide skirts, sloping shoulders and tiny waists. Look for curvy sweaters, capelets, shrugs, boleros, and dainty handbags.

1960s – This transitional decade saw a shift from full skirts to miniskirts, from Sandra Dee to Twiggy. Hair was high (think Hairspray), and the silhouette was long. Crocheted hats and tight-waisted sweaters were out. Look for tunic-length sweaters, crocheted suits and matching sweater/skirt patterns.

1970s – A fashion high-point for crochet. The peasant/hippy/gypsy look was everywhere. Also popular were the long and lean 1930s-inspired looks from the movies, such as Bonnie & Clyde and Annie Hall. Crochet patterns that translate to today include: shawls, vests, tunic sweaters, belts, neckties, ponchos, hats, hobo-style bags, and yes, bikinis.

Crochet hit its cultural saturation point in the mid-70s, and even a good thing can be taken too far. I believe that the negative attitude many people have towards crochet today dates to the extremes of ugliness achieved during the ‘70s and ‘80s. Today we are experiencing a craft renaissance. Crochet has been embraced by high-fashion pioneers, and it is again trickling down to the masses. With a few notable exceptions, there are not many new sources of fashionable crochet patterns. Until pattern designers and publishers latch onto its new popularity, we can look to the crochet patterns of the past for inspiration today.

Be sure to check back next issue for Part Two: Hands On Vintage – tips for finding and using vintage patterns today.